How One Hatmaker Shaped the Image of the American West

Speaker 1: This is Lee Habib, and this is Our American Stories, the show where America is the star and the American people, coming from the city where the West begins, Fort Worth, Texas. Up next, the story of a brand, an enduring icon of the American West. We’re, of course, talking about Stetson. Hugh. To tell the story of the most iconic headwear brand in America is my daughter, Reagan. Let’s get into the story.

Speaker 2: In eighteen thirty, in the small town of Orange, New Jersey, a child was born who would go on to create an iconic symbol of the American West. John B. Stetson was one of twelve children born to Stephen and Susan Batterson Stetson. His father was a hat maker by trade, and though young John had no intention of following in his footsteps, life had other plans. In his early twenties, tragedy struck. John contracted tuberculosis, then known as consumption, a disease that left many with little hope for survival. His doctors advised he seek the open air of the West. So John set out in search of health and fortune, hoping to strike it rich in the Gold Rush. But it wasn’t gold that he would find. As he traveled across the unforgiving plains, John found himself exposed to the elements: cold, wind, snow, and rain. There was a clear need for a garment that would protect against the elements. That’s when inspiration struck. John tapped into the knowledge of his youth and began using rabbit fur to create waterproof fabric, first making blankets, then hats with wide brims and tall crowns. The hats were designed to keep their wearers warm, dry, and shielded from the elements. The demand for these durable, practical hats was immediate. It is said that Stetson’s business empire began when a mule driver offered John five dollars for his hat, marking the first of many sales to come. In eighteen sixty-five, Stetson returned East to Philadelphia with a new vision: start a hat company of his own. With only a few tools and sixty dollars he borrowed from his sister, Stetson set up shop in a one-room operation on the northeast corner of Seventh and Callowhill Streets. From those humble beginnings, Stetson’s talent for innovation and quality quickly caught the eye of the growing American market. He wasn’t just making his hats; he was building a brand. See, Stetson had a mind for marketing and knew that by harnessing the power of the railroad and the telegram, he could expand his reach from local to national markets. He sent his hats to dealers in the Southwest, hoping they would place orders, and they did. Every dealer he sent a sample to placed an order of twelve hats at five to thirty dollars a pop. Stetson’s ingenuity didn’t stop with his product. In eighteen sixty-nine, he had a novel idea that would revolutionize his business model: using traveling salesmen to expand his reach. This allowed him to push beyond local markets and connect directly with customers across the country, fueling demand for his high-quality hats. These salesmen brought Stetson Hats to the farthest corners of America, driving the need for more production space. Stetson made another bold decision: to move his factory to a quieter, more expansive area in the northeast part of Philadelphia. This gave him the space he needed to expand. Eventually, that land would hold five- and six-story buildings housing some of the most sophisticated manufacturing equipment of the era, and even a hospital for his workers and their families. Stetson’s business philosophy was guided by a simple principle: do good work at fair prices. But it wasn’t just about selling a quality product. It was about creating a workplace and community that reflected his deep sense of fairness and care. His factory was, unlike most of its time, built from brick. It had automatic sprinkler systems, fire extinguishers on every floor, and other safety devices to protect the workers—a rarity in an era when industrial accidents were commonplace. By eighteen eighty-nine, Stetson had become a household name. His hats were now seen on the heads of legends like Buffalo Bill, Annie Oakley, and Will Rogers, ‘The Boss of the Plains.’ Stetson’s signature hat, inspired by the sombreros worn by the Mexican vaqueros he observed during his time out West, became the hallmark of rugged Western masculinity. Made from strong, waterproof beaver felt, it could withstand the brutal weather of the plains and even be used to carry water to a cowboy’s horse. That same year, Stetson’s vision was recognized on the world stage when he won ‘Best Hat’ at the Paris Exposition. The Stetson was no longer just for cowboys. It was a symbol of success, craftsmanship, and adventure. By the turn of the century, Stetson had turned his small factory into the largest hat manufacturer in the world, producing over two million hats each year for everyone from the hard-working ranchers to U.S. presidents. In nineteen oh-six, at the age of seventy-five, Stetson died of old age at his home in DeLand, Florida, but the death of the man behind the brand would not stop his legacy from living on and reaching new heights. During World War One, the Stetson Hat Company paused hat production to support the war effort, making parachutes and safety belts, and their patriotic slogan, ‘Keep it Up, Dear Stetson,’ became a call for vigilance and anti-espionage campaigns during wartime. After the war, production began again, and Hollywood began to further cement the Stetson hat as a symbol of the American West. Actors like Gene Autry, Roy Rogers, and James Dean made the Stetson part of their iconic look, bringing the cowboy hat into popular culture. The nineteen sixties marked a cultural shift as younger generations rejected the conventions of the past. The hat craze began to wane, and Stetson’s fortunes dipped as new fashion trends took hold. Yet, even as the world changed, the Stetson brand remained a symbol of the American West. Just as quickly as it had faded, the cowboy hat made a triumphant return. With films like Urban Cowboy, Indiana Jones, and Clint Eastwood’s Unforgiven, the Stetson was back in fashion. Today, Stetson hats continue to be made with the same attention to detail, craftsmanship, and ruggedness that John B. Stetson envisioned more than a century ago. From the plains of the West to the streets of New York, a Stetson is more than just a hat. It’s a statement. It’s a symbol of the American West: of hard work, adventure, and resilience. And just like the men and women who wear it, the Stetson hat will continue to stand the test…

Speaker 1: …of time. And a terrific job on the production, editing, and storytelling by our own Montay Montgomery and our own Reagan Habib, a classic American story here on Our American Stories. Lee Habib here, and I’m inviting you to help Our American Stories celebrate this country’s two hundred and fiftieth birthday, only a short time away. If you want to help inspire countless others to love America like we do and want to help us bring the inspiring and important stories, old and new, to millions for years to come, please consider making a tax-deductible donation to Our American Stories. Go to OurAmericanStories.com and click the ‘Donate’ button. Give a little, give a lot; any amount helps. Go to OurAmericanStories.com and give.