When Roger McGrath first paddled out at Malibu as a boy in the 1950s, surfing was still a small fraternity with only a few decades of history in California. The boards were heavy, the crowds were thin, and many of the men riding those waves were quietly reinventing the sport. Roger grew up among them, and decades later, he shares the story of the surfers who built the culture he fell in love with.
It begins with George Freeth, who brought stand-up surfing to California, and Tom Blake, who made the massive wooden surfboard lighter and added the fin. After World War II, Joe Quigg, Matt Kivlin, and the eccentric Bob Simmons pushed the board even further, experimenting with new shapes and materials until surfers could turn faster, ride harder, and do things on a wave that had once been impossible.
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